I'm not quite finished with my journey as I write this, but here goes from my experience so far. And so far I like it...
The cost for a second-class air conditioned sleeper, BKK to CM, was 791 baht, roughly $26, for one way. I believe when I booked my flight, the cost would have been about $400 more if I added BKK->CM->BKK. In addition to being cheaper than a flight, it also counts as a night at a hotel. Can you beat that deal? Transportation, lodging, and cultural experience for less than $30!
When you book, do it as early as possible. I've been told at least a month in advance. I booked mine maybe 2 or 3 weeks in advance, and there was only one AC sleeper seat available.
Upper vs. Lower berth: I'm in an upper berth. The advantages of an upper berth is that you can seclude yourself whenever you like. You're also close to the AC vents, so this is the one you want if you like it cold when you sleep. But don't worry if you prefer warmth, you get an effective blanket. The narrow ladder used to go up and down from your bunk isn't hindered by your downstairs neighbor, so you really have complete freedom to come and go as you please. If you have a lower berth, however, you will have to wait until your bunkmate is ready to retire before you can go to bed. The lower berth starts out as two seats facing each other, an optional table is added later if you order dinner or would like it installed. When it's time for breakfast, the table is not set up again, as far as I know. Mine was served to me in the upper berth. The benefit of the lower berth is you have a window to see the countryside pass by. I'm a little disappointed that I missed that.
If you're traveling with a partner, try to get top and bottom one side. You will then known your bunkmate. Also, you both can choose to sleep sitting or leaning on the table and keep your gear stored in the top bunk instead of the shelves in the walkway if you're paranoid about it or would like extra security.
When it comes to food, I would recommend eating before you go to the station. If you don't have time, there are some stalls, cart vendors, and a small store at Hua Lamphong, but the prices are a little higher since you're paying for convenience or your poor planning. If you want, you can order dinner on the train. The selection is limited to maybe a dozen options for dinner and about half that or less for breakfast. The prices are a little high for Thai standards, but I wouldn't complain about the quality and portion sizes. My food, dinner especially, was "arroy mak mak!" Dinner and breakfast (and maybe a bottle a water I accepted) cost me 340 baht.
The car has an attached bathroom at its front- a toilet closet, a shower closet, and two sinks. I didn't use the shower (I could stand waiting until I got to my hotel and it was constantly in use or locked) so I don't know what it's like. I'm not sure if someone was showering when I used the toilet, but it didn't flush (and hadn't been flushed) and the sinks didn't have water pressure. The water pressure could have been depleted because it seemed like everyone showered that night.
A few things I would recommend bringing would be toilet tissue (our toilets had it, but you never know); wet wipes, they provide an alternative to the shower; snacks/food & water, especially if you don't want to buy on the train; and something to do- it is a "14 hour" train ride.
Remember "This is Thailand," and just like most of the rest of Asia, things don't run on a strict schedule like the West. Be on time but don't expect your train to be. I'm not sure what time we finally departed the station, but my train is expected to arrive 4 hours late. The best way to enjoy traveling and Thailand is to go with the flow, be fluid, and don't stress.
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